Winter's Beauty Camellia
Clear Pink Flowers
A Cold-Hardy Hybrid Camellia for Zones 6, 7, 8, and 9
Winter’s Beauty camellia (Camellia ‘Winter’s Beauty’) is a slow-growing evergreen shrub with large, shell-pink flowers and dark glossy evergreen foliage. Winter’s Beauty blooms from fall through winter, when many other plants are dormant. It has 3-inch wide peony-form flowers with multiple rows of irregular shell-pink petals surrounding bright golden-yellow centers, bringing a splash of color to the winter garden at a time when little else is blooming.
Winter’s Beauty is a hybrid camellia, the result of a cross between Camellia japonica ‘Billie McCaskill’ and Camellia oleifera ‘Plain Jane’, developed by the American horticulturist Dr. William Ackerman. Winter’s Beauty belongs to a group of Ackerman camellias bred to withstand colder temperatures yet still be able to produce beautiful flowers. Winter’s Beauty camellia is hardy in zones 6-9 and flowers from November through January, depending on the geographical location. Weather variations from year to year can also influence the precise timing of blooms.
Camellias are native to Asia, where they grow wild on shady hillsides. Introduced to America in the late 1700s, these beautiful flowering shrubs have found a welcoming home in the southern regions of the United States, where their glossy evergreen leaves and vibrant blooms thrive. The keen admiration for the camellia is evident in the establishment of dedicated societies and festivals centered around these captivating plants, with enthusiasts from all over the world coming together to exchange information and organize events, seminars, and exhibitions.
Camellias do not like alkaline soil. If you are not sure about your soil conditions, do a soil test before investing in a camellia plant.
Winter’s Beauty camellias like moist, well-draining acidic soil. They are sensitive to high pH soils (alkaline), which will turn their leaves yellow. Partial shade is best for these evergreen shrubs, and they appreciate being kept out of the hot afternoon sun. Site them in an area where they receive protection from drying winds, and amend the soil heavily with organic matter such as compost or shredded leaves. Winter’s Beauty camellia grows 8 - 10 feet high and 6 - 8 feet wide. The camellia is considered to be a deer-resistant plant - it is not a preferred food source, but deer do occasionally browse camellias, especially tender young plants.
Camellias have the potential to be long-lived plants, yet they can suffer from a number of different fungal diseases and scale insects. Disease and insect pests can be prevented by giving camellias a partially shaded site, protection from cold winds, and well-draining, acidic soil.
How to Plant and Grow Winter’s Beauty Camellia
Location: Choose a site with well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Camellias prefer partial shade to protect them from the intense afternoon sun.
Wind Protection: Plant Winter’s Beauty camellia in a sheltered area, away from strong, drying winds.
Soil: Amend the soil with organic matter, such as compost, shredded leaves, or Leaf-gro®, to improve drainage and soil fertility. Ensure that the soil pH is slightly acidic - the best soil pH for camellias is in the range of 6.0 to 6.5.
Mulch: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to retain soil moisture, regulate temperature, and suppress weeds.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during periods of drought. Deep watering is preferable to encourage the development of a strong root system. For more information on watering, see “How to Water your Plants”.
Fertilization: In spring, after flowering, feed camellias with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants (like Holly-tone®). Avoid excessive use of high-nitrogen fertilizers.
Pruning: Prune camellias sparingly to shape the plant and remove dead or damaged branches. The best time for pruning is after the plant has finished flowering.
Are Winter’s Beauty Camellias Hard to Grow?
Camellias are known for their relatively easy care, provided they are planted in the right location. The key to successful cultivation lies in selecting an appropriate site that meets their specific needs. To create the ideal environment:
Plant in partial shade
Avoid direct exposure to intense afternoon sunlight
Protect from drying winds
Avoid planting in alkaline soils (perform a soil test, if needed)
Amend the soil with organic matter, such as compost, Leaf-gro®, or shredded leaves.
If you are not able to provide a camellia with the conditions it requires to thrive, consider these alternatives:
Sansaqua camellia (Camellia sansaqua): A cousin to the Winter’s Beauty camellia, this flowering evergreen shrub can handle more sun and slightly acidic to neutral soil.
American Holly (Ilex opaca): An upright, pyramidal evergreen shrub to small tree with red berries and green leaves. It grows in full sun to part shade; the boughs make excellent holiday decorations.
Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria): An evergreen shrub or small tree with bright red berries and glossy green leaves. A relatively long-lived plant that tolerates full sun to full shade.
Summersweet clethra (Clethra alnifolia): A tall shrub with white, bottlebrush-shaped summer flowers in full sun to shade. Straight species grows to 8 feet tall; smaller cultivars available.
Mountain hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata): An easy-care shrub for partial shade, with lacy flat-topped flowers in the summer. Grows to 5 feet tall; smaller cultivars available.
What is Wrong with My Camellia?
Yellowing leaves could be due to various factors, including nutrient deficiencies (especially iron in alkaline soils), poor drainage, or overwatering.
Brown, crispy leaf edges can be caused by underwatering, excessive sunlight, or windburn.
Leaf drop is caused by stress from sudden environmental changes, pests, or disease.
Bud drop before blooming can be caused by drought, sudden temperature fluctuations, or insufficient sunlight (Are you in a drought? Check the U.S. Drought Monitor).
Black or brown spots on the leaves and be caused by fungal infections.
Stunted growth can be a result of poor soil conditions, a lack of nutrients, or siting in an unsuitable location.
Why is My Camellia Turning Yellow?
The yellowing of leaves on a camellia can be attributed to several factors. Here are some common reasons why your camellia leaves may be turning yellow:
Nutrient Deficiency: Camellias are sensitive to iron deficiency, especially in alkaline soils. This can result in yellowing leaves with green veins (chlorosis). Consider applying a fertilizer specifically formulated for acid-loving plants, which includes micronutrients like iron.
Improper Soil pH: Camellias prefer slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.0-6.5. If the pH is too high (alkaline), it can affect nutrient availability, leading to yellowing leaves. Test the soil pH and, if necessary, amend it with materials to lower the pH, like aluminum sulfate or sulfur.
Overwatering or Poor Drainage: Excessive soil moisture can lead to root rot, causing leaves to yellow. Ensure proper drainage and avoid overwatering - camellias prefer consistently moist but not waterlogged soil.
Sun Exposure: Too much direct sunlight, especially in the hot afternoon hours, can cause leaf scorching and yellowing. Ensure your camellia is planted in partial shade.
Pests and Diseases: Pests and fungal diseases can cause yellowing of leaves. Check the undersides of leaves for signs of pests and treat accordingly; ensure good air circulation and proper watering practices to prevent fungal issues.
Transplant Shock: Recently planted camellias may experience stress from transplant shock, causing the leaves to yellow. Ensure new transplants receive adequate water and time to recover.